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The origins, sway, and production of Pochampally Sarees

The origins, sway, and production of Pochampally Sarees

by Mangesh Shinde

Pochampally Ikkat sarees may be identified by their “chowkra” designs, which resemble patterns like waves with diffused edges, diamonds inside squares, and the like.

Using a tie-and-dye technique, the yarns are coloured in tasteful design patterns before being weaved into the fabric to create Pochampally Ikkat. Typically, either cotton or silk is utilised for the material.

There is more to the tale when it comes to Pochampally Sarees, therefore in this blog article we will examine their history, weaving methods, designs, and current trends.

Let’s get right to it without further ado:

History and Origin of Pochampally Sarees

In the Telangana village of Bhoodan Pochampally, the tradition of creating Pochampally sarees and Pochampally Ikat dates back to the 1950s.

The Pochampally village chief was then motivated to produce cotton and silk woven goods in order to increase labour revenues. The ancient Pochampally Ikat weaving method was introduced to the community from Chirala, where it was known as “Chit-ku.” The secrets of this craft were then taught and passed down to other weavers.

The town of Pochampally quickly gained popularity and the skills necessary to compete with other silk producers around India as the wave expanded over its several mandals. Due to the distinctive and timeless qualities of the resulting cloth, the weaving process was very well welcomed in the industry.

 The Pochampally Ikat weaving skills have expanded to 10,000 artisan families in 100 villages by the year 1999. As a result, this simplified and reduced the cost of the ikat manufacturing process. A short while later, in 2000, the machines were added to speed up and improve the weaving process.

That is how it all began in the 20th century, setting the stage for its enduring effect on India’s tie-and-dye patola business.

Changes in Pochampally Ikat

This town, often known as the “Silk City of India,” has produced remarkable silk cloth for the industry, challenging other Ikat weavings in India. With rising demand, these Pochampally sarees soon displayed silk Ikats made of Bangalore-brought silk and Surat-sourced zari. The majority of sarees have fascinating geometric designs handmade on them by skilled artists using the Ikat dyeing technique.

These talented artisans have years of experience using complex patterns and colour schemes to produce flawless masterpieces. Some Pochampally sarees might even require up to 100 days to create until they are expertly created.

Today, the Yadadri Bhuvanagiri district as a whole is mostly evolving the Pochampally Ikat weaving. Pochampally saree weaving is a rather modern craft that lacks the deep local origins that other Ikat creations may have.

The belt was divided by the Indian government into two distinct clusters or key weaving centres in 2010: Pochampally 1 and Pochampally 2. Likewise, attempts are being made to resuscitate this extinct weaving tradition by the government and other handloom organisations.

Pochampally Ikkat Silk Sarees made using the art of Ikat weaving offer exceptional comfort with a dash of the beauty and grandeur that are often associated with silk cloth.

‘Ikat’, ‘Ikkat’, and occasionally ‘tie and dye’ weaves are the most well-known types of Pochampally textiles.

The bindings may be altered by artisans to produce eye-catching new designs and can be dyed once again to produce stunning colour colours. It takes several iterations of this process to create the appropriate patterns and colour combinations. After the dying process is complete, the bindings are finally taken off, releasing the strands to begin weaving the fabric.

Best Ikat subtypes

In the tie-and-dye technique known as warp ikat or single ikat, just the warp is resist-dyed before being woven with the weft. The weft can either be completely colourless or have a single colour dyed into it. In this method, the design may be seen on the warp before the weft is added to the weave. Silk, jute, cotton, or any other appropriate fibre may be used as the warp yarn.

Weft ikat is a weaving method that results in dye patterns on the weft strands. Thus, as the weaving process continues, the ikat patterns will become apparent. This method takes time since weft strands must be carefully positioned for the best pattern results. It is typically used when final outcomes are far more significant than pattern accuracy.

Double Ikat is a resist dyeing technique where both the warp and the weft are used. They are then combined to create a single piece of fabric. In actuality, this sort of weaving procedure is the most expensive and laborious.

The double Ikat technique is used in Pochampally Ikat to imprint complex designs onto the fabric.

The Most Important Difference Between Ikat and Batik

Typically, the resist is painted directly into the woven cloth when using batik or other resist-dyeing techniques.

However, with Ikat, the resist colouring is done on the threads before they are later woven into the desired fabric. Ikat sarees have designs on both faces of the fabric because the surface design is forced on threads rather than woven fabric.

Various other Ikats

In the Telangana villages of Bhoodan Pochampally and Puttapaka, Pochampally or Double Ikats are extensively made.

You must be aware that the terms Pochampally, Patola, and Ikat all refer to the same type of double ikkat weaving. A Patola and a Pochampally saree online differ primarily in their design aesthetic and geographic origin. This is a reference to the fact that Pochampallys originate from Telangana, whilst Patolas are produced in Patan, Gujarat.

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